Great info for anyone with or thinking about being a Horse owner
Selecting a horse is exciting, whether it is your first or your fiftieth. A new horse can open up a world of possibilities and fun, but it is also important to make sure that the horse will meet your needs as a rider. An ideal horse will perform well, stay healthy, and be pleasurable to work with, whether you are trail riding, using the horse for plowing, or participating in equestrian events like dressage and racing. Keep your needs and limitations in mind when you are searching for a horse to ensure that you get the perfect horse for you.
The first thing to think about is what the horse will be used for: pleasure riding, driving, dressage, jumping, eventing, racing, or working, for example. Next, think about the rider's experience. If you are buying the horse for yourself, ask for an honest assessment from your trainer about your level of skills and the type of horse that might be suited to you. If the horse is being purchased for someone else, especially a child, purchase a horse which will suit his or her abilities. You should also consider costs; horses range widely in cost depending on their level of training, breeding, and history, but they also cost a lot of money to maintain. Think about boarding fees, feeding, and veterinary care when purchasing a horse, and if you have never owned a horse before, ask horse owning friends about the costs of upkeep.
Also think about aesthetic and breed needs. Heavier riders will need larger, sturdier horses, while small and short riders would do well to think about ponies and small breeds. Certain breeds of horse have characteristics that are favorable for some activities: Clydesdales, for example, drive very well, while Thoroughbreds are built for speed. If you prefer a particular coat color or breed, consider this when looking for horses; if you want a Palomino, you will never be happy with a Paint.
Next, think about training. Many people prefer to buy horses fully trained, so that they can get straight to work. If you want to train the horse yourself, decide on whether you want a totally green horse, or a horse with some basic skills. Be aware that different styles of riding require different training: do not purchase a dressage horse for trail riding, for example, or a Western pleasure horse for English jumping. The older a horse is, the better trained and behaved it tends to be, unless it has picked up bad habits. If you are purchasing a horse for an inexperienced rider, you certainly want a well trained, well behaved horse.
Once you have thought about needs and training, start checking out horses for sale in your area. Make several appointments to look at horses, and do not settle for the first one you meet. When going to inspect a horse, look it over carefully. Inspect the way in which the horse is put together. Is the horse built well for the tasks you need it to perform? Take someone more experienced along if you are not familiar with what to look for. While you are inspecting the horse, look for a clean, healthy coat, bright eyes, and any signs of sores and swelling. Ask the owners about the horse's history, and keep an eye on the horse's behavior. A horse which stands quietly while being examined is a good candidate for purchase, while a horse which fusses, nips, or fidgets may be a trouble maker.
After you have met and examined the horse, spend some time using the horse as you would after your purchase it. Saddle it for riding on the trail or take it through a dressage routine in an arena, or harness it for driving or other work. While using the horse, watch for signs of lameness and poor behavior, and see how well the horse responds to commands and guidance. Be certain to ask the owners about how the horse has been trained and handled, and ask for some time to think the decision over. If you liked the horse, call the owners and ask for a second appointment, and bring a veterinarian along for a second opinion. If you are not interested, call the owners and inform them, as a basic courtesy.
The first thing to think about is what the horse will be used for: pleasure riding, driving, dressage, jumping, eventing, racing, or working, for example. Next, think about the rider's experience. If you are buying the horse for yourself, ask for an honest assessment from your trainer about your level of skills and the type of horse that might be suited to you. If the horse is being purchased for someone else, especially a child, purchase a horse which will suit his or her abilities. You should also consider costs; horses range widely in cost depending on their level of training, breeding, and history, but they also cost a lot of money to maintain. Think about boarding fees, feeding, and veterinary care when purchasing a horse, and if you have never owned a horse before, ask horse owning friends about the costs of upkeep.
Also think about aesthetic and breed needs. Heavier riders will need larger, sturdier horses, while small and short riders would do well to think about ponies and small breeds. Certain breeds of horse have characteristics that are favorable for some activities: Clydesdales, for example, drive very well, while Thoroughbreds are built for speed. If you prefer a particular coat color or breed, consider this when looking for horses; if you want a Palomino, you will never be happy with a Paint.
Next, think about training. Many people prefer to buy horses fully trained, so that they can get straight to work. If you want to train the horse yourself, decide on whether you want a totally green horse, or a horse with some basic skills. Be aware that different styles of riding require different training: do not purchase a dressage horse for trail riding, for example, or a Western pleasure horse for English jumping. The older a horse is, the better trained and behaved it tends to be, unless it has picked up bad habits. If you are purchasing a horse for an inexperienced rider, you certainly want a well trained, well behaved horse.
Once you have thought about needs and training, start checking out horses for sale in your area. Make several appointments to look at horses, and do not settle for the first one you meet. When going to inspect a horse, look it over carefully. Inspect the way in which the horse is put together. Is the horse built well for the tasks you need it to perform? Take someone more experienced along if you are not familiar with what to look for. While you are inspecting the horse, look for a clean, healthy coat, bright eyes, and any signs of sores and swelling. Ask the owners about the horse's history, and keep an eye on the horse's behavior. A horse which stands quietly while being examined is a good candidate for purchase, while a horse which fusses, nips, or fidgets may be a trouble maker.
After you have met and examined the horse, spend some time using the horse as you would after your purchase it. Saddle it for riding on the trail or take it through a dressage routine in an arena, or harness it for driving or other work. While using the horse, watch for signs of lameness and poor behavior, and see how well the horse responds to commands and guidance. Be certain to ask the owners about how the horse has been trained and handled, and ask for some time to think the decision over. If you liked the horse, call the owners and ask for a second appointment, and bring a veterinarian along for a second opinion. If you are not interested, call the owners and inform them, as a basic courtesy.
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by evelyn on -
For rest of January I will posting info on The Horse itself..while some info is from yrs of be a Horse owner other info I have gathered from variouse sorces and some pics will be my own while other pics I have gathered from other sources..I hope this helps you in gaining knoledge about such a wonderful animal I've been so forenutate to have most my life..Hugs Evelyn
Many different breeds of horses exist today, but there are only three main types of horses: heavy horses, light horses, and ponies. Heavy horses may also be referred to as draft, dray or draught horses. The heavy horse looks just as the name implies — heavy. The body is strong with a broad back and rounded withers, which is the spot between the horse's shoulder blades.
On a heavy horse, the legs are short and thick to aid them in pulling carts or plowing fields. Heavy horses are specifically made for heavy labor like farming. These types of horses also move with short steps and choppy movements to give them ultimate traction. Heavy horses can also be shown at fairs and horse shows. Some different breeds of heavy horses include the Clydesdale and the American Cream Draft horse.
Light horses, another of the three main types of horses, are usually used for riding purposes. Saddles can easily be fitted over the horses back, allowing for a comfortable ride. Light horses have longer bodies than a draft horse, and hardly bend their knees at all when they move.
These horses have true and false ribs, which aid in placing the saddle on the horses back. The true ribs are the first eight ribs of the horse's ribcage, which are flat so that the saddles lie just behind the trapezius muscle. The last ten false ribs are rounded rather than flat. Some different breeds of light horses are quarter horses, thoroughbreds and miniature horses, which are not to be confused with the third type of horse, ponies.
Ponies are the last of the three main types of horses. Ponies are often confused with miniature horses or baby horses, with are called foals. Ponies are unique in every way possible from a heavy horse or a light horse. They have naturally thicker manes, tails, and coats than a regular horse; and they also have smaller heads and thicker necks than any other type of horse.
Ponies are intelligent, friendly creatures with stubborn habits. Adults can actually ride ponies, although if a pony is trained by a beginner they will exhibit spoiled behavior. One breed of pony that many people may recognize is the Shetland pony.
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Permalink Reply by evelyn on
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A quarter horse is a breed of horse known for its speed over short distances. The American Quarter Horse breed evolved during the early 1600s, as Arab, Turk, and Barb breeds were brought to America and crossed with horses from England and Ireland. The result was a compact, muscled horse that was ideal for short-distance racing. Characteristics include limited white markings on the face and below the knees, heavy muscling, and a gentle nature. There are 13 colors accepted by the American Quarter Horse Association (AQHA) as being indicative of quarter horse heritage - sorrel (most common), brown, chestnut, gray, dun, red dun, buckskin, black, bay, grullo, red roan, blue roan, and palamino. While the quarter horse is most widely known for its short-distance racing ability, it is also used to: 1)herd cattle, 2) numerous rodeo events and for 3) English classes of dressage and show jumping.
The bloodline of the American Quarter Horse has been preserved by the American Quarter Horse Association, which sets forth a strict set of guidelines in regard to registration. One of many such guidelines is the fact that each American Quarter Horse foal must have an American Quarter Horse sire (father) and an American Quarter Horse dam (mother). In order to keep accurate records of heritage, the AQHA maintains the largest equine registry in the world, with over 3.7 million registered American Quarter Horses. They keep track of all ownership records, performance and produce data, as well as American Quarter Horse population figures.
The American Quarter Horse Association's Worldwide Headquarters is located in Amarillo, Texas, and the American Quarter Horse Heritage Center and Museum is conventiently located right next door. The museum is open to the public and boasts a wide variety of research materials, exhibits, informative videos, and hands-on displays.
Some notable American Quarter Horses include King, who set the standard for American Quarter Horses; Go Man Go, who dominated the American Quarter Horse racing scene by setting three track records and one world record; Dash for Cash, considered one of the greatest sires of racing American Quarter Horses; and Easy Jet who, as a 2-year-old, had 22 wins from 26 starts.
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Permalink Reply by evelyn on
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Saddle Fitting Guide
A saddle that doesn't fit your horse properly can give rise to all sorts of training and health problems. A saddle that doesn't fit you properly will be uncomfortable to ride in and will throw you out of position.
The main feature of the saddle which dictates whether it will fit your horse or not is the width of the gullet. All horses' backs are not created equal, ranging from the prominent withers of the Thoroughbred to the rounded, mutton withers often seen in Arabians and Quarter Horses. If the saddle you choose has a gullet that is too wide, the saddle will press down on the withers. If the gullet is too narrow, the saddle will pinch.
Other points to consider are the balance of the saddle when it is on the horse, are the pommel and cantle level, or does the saddle tip backward or forward. A saddle that doesn't sit level will create uncomfortable pressure for your horse, as well as making it difficult for you to maintain your position.
As well as fitting the horse, it's important that the saddle fit the rider. A saddle that is too small will cause discomfort as you bump against the pommel at every stride (believe me, I've been there) A saddle that is too large will have you swimming around trying to maintain your position. Ideally you should be able to place your flat hand between you and the cantle when seated in the lowest part of the seat.
How To Fit The Rider
Measure from the base of the horn straight back to the top middle edge of the cantle.
You should feel comfortable in the saddle, having adequate clearance for your legs and stomach. You should not feel jammed into the seat. You should have about 4 inches in between the front of your body and the pommel/fork. Your seat needs to rest against the base of the cantle but not be squashed against the rise of the cantle. The fender length should allow your leg to rest comfortably in the stirrup.
How To Fit Your Horse
1) Stand your horse on flat, even ground.
2) Place the saddle on his clean dry back without a pad or girth. Make sure you set the saddle on his back starting at the withers then slide the saddle down towards his back, letting the saddle settle where it wants. A properly fitted saddle should rest nicely into your horse's back.
3) Check the skirt. Does the skirt follow the shape of your horses back? The skirt should conform to the shape of the horse's back. The skirt should not stick out away from the horse's back. The skirt should not be too long. If the skirt juts into the horse's hip it may cause your horse discomfort and may impede his movement.
4) Check for balance. Step back several feet to view the saddle from the side of your horse. The billets should follow the contour of your horse's girth area and the flat area of the seat should be parallel to ground. Note: The pommel should not be higher than the cantle, however the cantle maybe higher than the pommel depending on style of saddle.
5) Check pommel/fork clearance. You should be able to place four stacked fingers between the horse's withers and the pommel/fork. On a new saddle if you can fit more then four fingers, it's too narrow, less then three it's too wide. The clearance will shrink to 2 1/2 stacked fingers after the saddle breaks in.
6) Check for gullet clearance. From the same position in step five, look down the gullet of the saddle making sure there is clearance the entire run of the back.
7) Look at the horse's shoulders. Make sure the saddle flaps follow the contour of the horse's shoulder and is not pinching anywhere.
8) With a new saddle it is always recommend to try the saddle. Remember to research the saddle trial/return policy at the store you are shopping before adding stirrups and a girth to the saddle. When you test ride the saddle go through your regular routine. Paying close attention to where the saddle places your leg and your body. Making sure you can rise out of the saddle at the trot without hitting the pommel. Can you get out of the saddle in order to jump? Does your horse feel like he can extend as he normally does or is the saddle pinching the shoulder hindering his forward movement? These are just a few good things to look for when trying a new saddle.
9) After the test ride, check the pattern of your horses sweat marks after you remove the saddle. The area under the saddle should show consistent sweat marks, you should not see any dry areas or areas that are excessively wet compared to others. If you do, the saddle does not fit your horse properly. The saddle is sitting or pinching certain areas of the horses back unevenly.
Western Saddles Consist of These Different Bar Widths For Proper Saddle Fitting:
1. Standard Quarter Horse bar - fits 80% of all western horses.
2. Semi Quarter Horse bar - fits higher withered horses with narrow shoulders.
3. Full Quarter Horse bar - fits flat or "mutton Withered" horses.
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Permalink Reply by Dee Dee on -
I have a friend with a website that has tons of articles on choosing a horse, horse care, natural horse training, etc. Her website is www.gemara.homestead.com or the direct link to the articles page is
http://gemara.homestead.com/Articles.html
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Permalink Reply by SaVonni Yestanti on -
This is absolutley wonderful information! Thank you!!!
Savvy
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